Tues 28th Oct
We leave our wild camping place in the woods after an early morning greeting from a local shepherd. Such a difference from the previous shepherds we encountered. This shepherd wants nothing, just a chat and to share the berries he has collected.
The road toward the Med is busy, it is stressful driving so when we see an open campsite, we pull in. It is a good day to stop early, the sun is hot, the sea blue and the bourganvillia still blooming.
Having changed back into summer attire, we sit by the sea and soak up the rays. We hear the chug chug of a little fishing boat, and are then treated to the most unusual display of fishing we have ever seen. Four young Turks in a small boat, one steering, two standing ready by the nets and one perched precariously on the stern. If he had suddenly burst into song and started singing "My heart will go on" it would not have been out of place!
He spots a shoal of fish. Instantly, in a well rehearsed act, the boat starts to circle. As it does the nets are let out, spiralling in tighter and tighter circles. All the fishermen then run to the middle of the boat and jump up and down. The sound of their jumping and the engine frightens the fish, who leap from one inner circle of netting to the next. A lucky few are in the outer ring, they leap to freedom. When the leaping subsides, the nets are pulled in, together with their catch. It was fascinating.
After lazing away the afternoon, we dine in the camp restaurant. We are the only campers and the only diners!
Wed 29th Oct
The day dawns bright and sunny. Warm enough to have breakfast outside. We work our way along the coastline as far as is possible but the terrain of cliffs straight down to the sea and some new road layouts mean we have no choice but to be taken a little inland. The temperature creeps up. It is a shame to waste such a hot sunny day driving, so at the first bit of beach we come to, we pull in. It is another small campsite but so be it. There is so little accessible beach on this part of the coastline that what is, is private; fenced off in favour of the hotel, apartment block or campsite lucky enough to be so strategically placed.
Richard goes snorkelling whilst I paddle and investigate the many rock pools. I have now paddled in the Mamara Sea, the Black Sea and now the Mediterranean Sea, once I have also paddled in the Aegean I will have been in all of Turkey's Seas. My rock pools reveal little; a few crabs and some red anemones was about it. Richard was luckier with his snorkelling, he saw a variety of brightly coloured fish.
A day like today, which had seen a return of the summer clothes, not to mention the insect repellent and the anti histamines, definitely called for the BBQ to be rooted out from the back of the cupboard. We cooked early, the changing of the clocks has significantly reduced the evening light. A good plan as it turned out, Mother Nature had some entertainment in store for us. She treated us to a light show. The remainder of the evening was spent watching a lightening storm over the sea. A few fishing boats, that had gone out early, soon retreated, hot foot, back to the safety of the harbour. The storm had the sea to itself; sheet lightening lit it up and fork lightening struck like a jagged spear before fizzling out into the breaking waves. The storm went on and on, thunder still rumbling when we had retired and gone to bed.
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