After enjoying a Turkish breakfast in the cafe by the campsite, we have a wander into the village. Then it's back for a last shower before we leave, it'll probably be kettle washing tomorrow so best make the most of a hot shower whilst we can.
It is early afternoon by the time the famous white terraces are behind us. The road to Ephesus is easy and before dark we have found a conveniently located pretty little campsite. It has no hot water and no wifi but to make up for this the little chap holding the fort, gives us a large bag of tangerines from the trees in the garden.
Tues 18th Nov
Feeling somewhat "ruined out" we defer our visit to Ephesus in favour of Mary's House. Travellers come to Turkey, tourists come to Turkey and pilgrims come to Turkey. Today we join the latter.
During our stay in this country, we have visited Islamic sites, Christian sites and Pagan sites. Not one has the atmosphere of Mary's House. This was something neither of us had expected but both of us felt. The house is where, having been brought here by St. John, the Virgin Mary spent her last days. It is now a church, though perhaps it is better described as a place of prayer, since it does not have what we have come to know as the typical church layout. The whole site is very tastefully set out (this was a relief.) The church is very simple and retains its house like appearance and lay out.
The whole site feels tranquil and serene. In the church you can almost touch the peace. Time stands still here. You can just sit, just "be" and remain totally unaware of time passing as unnoticed, the atmosphere washes over you. I can think of no other place that compares to this simple, reassuring yet so powerful a building.
If it felt like this when Mary was here, then yes this was the perfect place to die in. That may sound odd and it is difficult to express, maybe if you think of the perfect death you would wish for a loved one; part of that wish would be that it should happen in a place of peace and serenity, surrounded by love.
If any of our few, fellow "pilgrims" had spontaneously burst into tears for no reason, it would of been of no surprise. If this place could make us experience such emotions, then how much more must have been felt by Popes Paul, John Paul and Benedict when they visited?
I knew, when we came to Turkey I had to visit Mary's house but I didn't know why. Having been here, it will be one of my most special moments but again, I am not really sure that I know why? Would I come back here? Yes, just to sit!
Wed 19th Nov
Having camped by a beach bar last night, we made the most of a gloriously long sandy beach and went for a good walk before breakfast. Having paddled all the way back, my aim of paddling in all of Turkey's seas is now accomplished.
As expected, it took us all day to look round and admire the ruins of Ephesus. It dates back well into BC times and has been built and rebuilt so many times. How restorers now decide which era to restore a building to, is beyond us. There is something quite mind blowing to look at a building that was restored by the Romans! The library was what I most wanted to see and it didn't disappoint!
If we do end up leaving Turkey by the 22nd, then what a finale we have had.
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