Mon 13th Oct
We are up with the dawn, to see the sun rise over the mountain and see it's first rays shine onto this church perched as it is at the peak. That was the poetic reason for our early start, the other more practical reason, was to get down this dire, steep, rocky, precarious track before there is chance of meeting any other vehicles on the way up. Having to reverse is nigh on impossible, although we did have to on the way up. Well, Fay and Richard did, I just held my breathe! We all agree we won't knowingly ask Fay to accomplish such a feet again.
With no low ratio, the descent was skilfully managed with a combination of riding the brakes but not enough to induce brake fade and use of the handbrake. Fay has an automatic gearbox, low is as slow as she can do and without Richard's help that would be too fast. The Georgian drivers we met up here last night, were curious about Fay and amazed that she only has her one gear stick. The Georgians are generally friendly when you speak to them but they are very imposing before you do.
We reach the bottom safely, both Fay and Richard deserve a big kiss, only one gets it! We continue our descent of the mountain. Leaving the snow line there is a burning barricade of Autumn colour. A deep quilt of bronzes, coppers, russets, reds and oranges cover the hillsides before, as we drive lower and lower, these give way to the still prevalent shades of green. Summer maybe fighting a losing battle but she is not ready to surrender her season in the towns just yet. We soon change out of our early morning fleeces back into thin T Shirts again.
Purely for the photo opportunity, we drive as close as we can to the Russian border. Right up to the crossing post there is still no road sign saying Russia or naming any Russian town. This despite the fact that we have seen signs to Tehran and Bagdad! So much for monuments signifying supposed friendship between Georgia and Russia.
The only road into and out of Russia from here is the Georgian Military Road, it was in a much better state than we had been expecting. We drive it's entire length on our way to Mtskheti. It is a bit of a tourist town but well worth a visit. Having trolled round the gift shops and visited the cathedral we head back to the main car park, where we had left Fay. We meet a Frenchman, Ian, in a serious overland vehicle, he is travelling for three years. He too had visited the Gergeti church and is full of respect for Fay at her achievement.
There is an archeological site nearby that we visit. The remains are remarkably well preserved. As we leave the site to walk back through the woods that lead to the road, we notice a very long and steep ladder leading to a cave. This must be investigated. There are no signs to tell what it is. What we find at the top is a beautiful cave chapel, incredible!
Travelling alone, Ian is glad of some company and conversation. We enjoy a pleasant evening in a local bar, swopping travellers tales. Ian tells us that tomorrow there is a festival in town.
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