Cappodocia

Tue 21st Oct

Our first job of the day; look for mouse poo! None, hoorah, let's hope that is the end of our rodent experiences.

Having driven all day, we reach Urgup a potential base for our explorations of Cappodocia. We opt for a proper campsite tonight. Although there are numerous wild camping options, there is also the first still open campsite here, so the opportunity of a hot shower, wifi and even a washing machine win!

We have a fantastic view over the valley, a great place to watch the famous hot air balloons take flight over the fairy chimneys.

Wed 22nd Oct

A day to chill and do some chores. The luxury of a hot shower is sublime! We take a walk to a near by rock church and Monastery, very ancient and interesting. Tomorrow we need to be up before dawn for our hot air balloon trip.

Thur 23rd Oct

We are up before light but it is too windy for the balloons to take off, so we return to bed! Today is lazily spent shopping in Urgup. Urgup is a nice town with interesting shops and friendly people, we indulge ourselves and have a traditional lunch in one of its restaurants. Then time to walk the lunch off before watching the sun go down over Sunset Hill. We know we are very lucky to be able to do what we are doing. These six months are precious days which we will treasure. We will try again tomorrow to get our balloon ride.

Central Anatolia

Mon 20th Oct

As soon as it is light enough, we start a total strip of the van. Fortunately, yesterday's rain has gone but there is snow on the surrounding mountains so at this early hour it is very cold. Every cupboard is turned out, panels are unscrewed every conceivable hiding place a mouse might favour is investigated. It appears, after doing a thorough poo inspection, our unwanted guests arrived in the night; somehow gaining access either by the drivers side or the engine as there we droppings under the driver seat and on the engine block. From there it was easy enough to find the kitchen, vegetable store and bread bag.

By the time we had finished our major strip down of Fay it was 10.30am and we were freezing. Today breakfast was a hot cup of soup! We have found no more mice. Is that a comfort or a worry? We are both tired, not having slept but know that the chance of a good nights sleep tonight will be slim; we will be awake listening!

To take our minds off our mouse problems, we visit some very pretty waterfalls.

The closer we get to our next area of Turkey, so the landscape and the friendliness of the people start to change. The baker, where we buy bread for us and as mouse bait, is very jolly. When we are seen looking for and early parking site for the night, a restauranteur beckons over. His name is Hassan, we are welcome to stay in his grounds. He gives us Cay and we chat to other people there. None speak English but this doesn't seem to hamper communication. We enjoy a meal of fish and salad, then Hassan looks with interest at our many photos of our trip so far. He invites us to eat some potatoes with him and his twin sons. Potatoes turns out to be a full spread; pide (a sort of pizza but different), bread, potatoes, olives, cheese and delicious honeycomb. We have a lovely evening and thankfully a peaceful night.

A change of direction & an uninvited guest!

Sun 19th Oct

We see no more of the shepherds and leave in the morning. The area we are driving through is very militarised, town after town of police, soldiers, barbed wire and armoured vehicles. Whether it is because these region borders Syria or whether it is, to borrow a phrase from our Pakistani Guide, Karim, because of the "nervousness" between the Turks and the Kurds, we do not know.

Over coffee we both agree that we are not enjoying this area and so decide to forego visiting Abraham's birthplace and some ancient giant stone heads and turn northwards. A more direct route to Cappodocia is favourable, plus it is raining today so a long drive is not a hardship. Once again, memories of Pakistan are stirred as we see low stone houses with turf roofs and mounds of dried cow pats, ready for use as the winter fuel supply. All along the road are so many dead animals. The inevitable dogs who forgot their green cross code but also several sheep, a cow and even a donkey still with his head collar on!

We find a parking place with a good view, up an old disused road and look forward to a quiet night. This was not to be, Fay had unwanted visitors in the night! Beside the old road was a cliff face, there was evidence of some minor rock falls but only small stones and we were parked beyond the point they had reached. We settled down to sleep but could hear small rocks slithering down? I felt a bit concerned but Richard reassured all was well. I lay there, unable to relax. Another sound, this time, rustling and it sounded as if it were inside the van!

This is too much, I wake Richard who half awake, half asleep tells me to put the light on if I'm worried; I do. The bread bag is moving!!! Quick as a flash, Richard is up and out of the van, bread bag complete with gorging mouse are dispensed. This is the end of any thoughts of sleep for either of us. The falling rock sound wasn't, it was scrabbling mice. How many, though? We dress and sat upon the bed for fear of any unwanted guests under being under the bed and pass the hours till daylight playing cards and worrying! How did they get in? How long have they been there?


Sent from my iPad

A dark day

Sat 18th Oct

We have four more definite destinations we want to see in Turkey, so plan a route accordingly. Before setting off, Richard give Fay a quick check over, apart from her chipped windscreen, she has picked up some nylon rope which has wrapped itself round her drive shaft. Removing this delays our start to the day. If there is one thing that we would criticise Turkey for it is it's attitude to rubbish. Rubbish is everywhere, it gets bagged up and just dumped. Beauty spots are particular favourites for dumping rubbish. Even proper dumps are in what would be the prettiest places.

Today we should reach Lake Van. Our road takes us through some very poor areas, stone houses with turf roofs and piles of dried cow pats ready for use as winter fuel. It is very reminiscent of Pakistan. Needing a bit of shopping we stop in a large town on the top road. The lower road meant asking Fay to do yet more high passes and anyway the cloud was so low there would be no rewarding views. Once in the town, we decide against stopping. For the first time I do not feel happy to leave Fay. On the outskirts, there is a small shop were we stock up. Fay gets surrounded by dirty, noisy children. They are harmless but it leaves an uncomfortable feeling.

Where to stop tonight? Not liking the town, I want to go further on so miss out on a couple of possible sites before finding an actual campsite. It is closed for the season but still accessible, this will do. We have not long parked when a young man comes up, he doesn't speak English but indicates that we should pay to park here. I do not believe he is anything to do with the site, more likely a Chancer? After some discussion, we agree to give him a few lira. He wants more but realises he is lucky to get anything, off he goes. Shortly after, he returns with a friend who also wants money! We say No! Another arrives, we suspect they are shepherds. Remaining smiley, I try to converse using sign language, we discover their names and after my bleating at them, that yes they are shepherds. Oh well, so long as they go and leave us alone we don't begrudge them the money. Theirs is a harsh existence, however, I can't say that this area of Turkey is endearing itself to us.

We have found the ark!!

Fri 17th Oct

Each region of Turkey we have visited has varied considerably and Eastern Anatolia is no exception. Fay climbs mountains, covers plains and journeys on through the old volcanic scenery. She isn't keen on going higher than 2000 meters, it makes her short of breath and cough black smoke but none the less, she trundles on.

Our destination for today - Mount Arrat. It is huge, initially partially covered with cloud but we can see the snow line even if the summit is hidden. As we went to the Russian boarder, we thought we would also go to the Iranian boarder. This decision put us in the right place, at the time as on our about turn, we saw a tourist sign for Noah's Ark! Being under the impression that evidence for the Arks existence had never been found on Arrat, we were intrigued. 5k on, up a steep incline we came to a tatty looking closed up building. Peeping through the window, inside appeared set up for a lecture? If nothing else there was a stupendous view and this would make a great stopover.

An elderly gentleman appears, he informs us he is the "Guardian of the Ark" and offers to open the museum. Inside it is tatty but to our amazement there are documents, accounts and artefacts indicating overwhelming evidence that the Ark is not on Mount Arrat itself but opposite! The dimensions of the outline are exact to the biblical account, there is petrified wood and keel stones. One man has tried desperately to get a full excavation of the whole area, but for years has been refused permission. Whether it is or whether it isn't, I shall choose to believe we did find the Ark! As we exited the building, the cloud briefly parted and we were privileged to see Mount Arrat in its entirety. Wow!

We asked the "guardian" if it would be ok to stay there for the night but he said no. He explained it was too dangerous for us, we were so close to the Iranian boarder and it would be a problem when the soldiers garrisoned nearby found us, which there was no doubt they would. Shame, that really would have been a one off campsite.

With so many roadworks and their accompanying loose clippings, it was only a matter of time before Fay caught one right on the smacker! It is a large chip, we will just have to hope it goes no further before we are somewhere we can get it repaired. Fay now looks like every other vehicle on the road!

Back we go, putting distance between us and Iran, we settle for another old quarry, this time we really are alone.

Goodbye Georgia

Thur 16th Oct

Today we leave Georgia. It has been a good place to visit; good food; good wine; good beer; brilliant scenery and a culture that is different to any of the other countries we have so far visited.

Once back in Turkey, we intend to head for Lake Van, so we opt for the eastern most boarder crossing. As we get closer the road gets quieter, rather odd but this is a little used route?? We were right about that, very little used....it isn't open yet! About turn and head back to find the next crossing point, which is at Vale. It doesn't matter, we are treated to more of the beautiful Georgian scenery. Across the hillsides, hundreds of trees like burning beacons guide the way to Turkey.

A quick lunch stop by a river turns in the ideal opportunity for an overdue hair wash. I wonder if the beauty industry know the benefits of washing your hair in river water?

This boarder crossing is quiet, small, and very friendly. Soon we are through, saying Goodbye to Georgia and Hello once again to Turkey.

Back in Turkey and back to the roadworks. There is major investment going on all over Turkey, it seems; extensive new roads; dams; reservoirs. The only trouble with the new roads is that it is harder to find places to pull off for the night. At dusk we find a track into some woods, it is damp and dark but will have to do for tonight.

Reminder of Pakistan!

Wed 15th Oct

Ian is moving on to Armenia, we consider whether or not to go there but decide to leave our options open for now. There is no border from Armenia into Turkey, so if we do we would have to come back into Georgia in order to return to Turkey.

We bid farewell to Ian but exchange email addresses. Our route out of the country, takes us to a very different area. Once we are through Tblisi, where the temperature is still 30 degrees, the region becomes much more rural and poorer; it reminds us of Rumania and Bulgaria. The scenery though remains stunning. We are glad to be here in the Autumn, it really is spectacular. Still at high altitude, we see herds of cattle and flocks of sheep being moved. We immediately remember the nomadic tribes in Pakistan returning to Kashmir, especially when we see a waterfall of fat bottomed sheep rushing over the hillside before getting either a nip from a dog or a slap from from a shepherd.

At Ninotsminda we have to make a decision. Left for Armenia or right for Turkey. We look at the sky, to the left it is black to the right blue. We follow the sun!

Looking for somewhere to stop, there is a dirt track to a disused quarry, that should be quiet, we can tuck ourselves away up there. Not so, the dirt track is used as a short cut to a neighbouring village and as it turned out, very well used! No worries though, the Georgian drivers, after doing a double take, all waved, smiled and tooted.

Festival Day

Tues 14th Oct

When we wake the town is already very busy. We do not know what the festival is, other than that it is a religious festival. There is heavy police and security presence, as well as TV coverage, men in black suits and hoards of people.

We walk to the cathedral, still we have no idea what the celebration is for. People are praying very fervently. Beggars are out in force. Many Orthodox priests are about as well as the most unlikely looking worshipers. 70% of the Georgian men have an appearance, statue and demeanour that would allow any of them to instantly be employed as a bouncer or body guard anywhere in the west, on looks alone. Yet here in front of the Cathedral, these fierce looking men, cross themselves, fall to their knees and kiss the walls of the church.

Having people watched for some time, we wander on through the town. There are stalls and general fair/fete type activities, folk dancing and singing. The deeply religious Georgians also enjoy their vodka and gambling!

In the evening we return to the fair with Ian. It is good to stroll and take in the atmosphere. In the centre is a very nice restaurant which is connected to one of the many wineries. We all go in and enjoy drinks and nibbles on the top floor terrace. From here we have an excellent view of the fireworks and of the Monastery and fort on the nearby hills. The waitress helps us to choose wines from their ample list. Georgian wine can be recommended and compared to European prices is very reasonable. We question her about today's activities. With her helpful but limited English, we discover that it is to do with St. Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia.

Georgia pics 1

To the Russian Border

Mon 13th Oct

We are up with the dawn, to see the sun rise over the mountain and see it's first rays shine onto this church perched as it is at the peak. That was the poetic reason for our early start, the other more practical reason, was to get down this dire, steep, rocky, precarious track before there is chance of meeting any other vehicles on the way up. Having to reverse is nigh on impossible, although we did have to on the way up. Well, Fay and Richard did, I just held my breathe! We all agree we won't knowingly ask Fay to accomplish such a feet again.

With no low ratio, the descent was skilfully managed with a combination of riding the brakes but not enough to induce brake fade and use of the handbrake. Fay has an automatic gearbox, low is as slow as she can do and without Richard's help that would be too fast. The Georgian drivers we met up here last night, were curious about Fay and amazed that she only has her one gear stick. The Georgians are generally friendly when you speak to them but they are very imposing before you do.

We reach the bottom safely, both Fay and Richard deserve a big kiss, only one gets it! We continue our descent of the mountain. Leaving the snow line there is a burning barricade of Autumn colour. A deep quilt of bronzes, coppers, russets, reds and oranges cover the hillsides before, as we drive lower and lower, these give way to the still prevalent shades of green. Summer maybe fighting a losing battle but she is not ready to surrender her season in the towns just yet. We soon change out of our early morning fleeces back into thin T Shirts again.

Purely for the photo opportunity, we drive as close as we can to the Russian border. Right up to the crossing post there is still no road sign saying Russia or naming any Russian town. This despite the fact that we have seen signs to Tehran and Bagdad! So much for monuments signifying supposed friendship between Georgia and Russia.

The only road into and out of Russia from here is the Georgian Military Road, it was in a much better state than we had been expecting. We drive it's entire length on our way to Mtskheti. It is a bit of a tourist town but well worth a visit. Having trolled round the gift shops and visited the cathedral we head back to the main car park, where we had left Fay. We meet a Frenchman, Ian, in a serious overland vehicle, he is travelling for three years. He too had visited the Gergeti church and is full of respect for Fay at her achievement.

There is an archeological site nearby that we visit. The remains are remarkably well preserved. As we leave the site to walk back through the woods that lead to the road, we notice a very long and steep ladder leading to a cave. This must be investigated. There are no signs to tell what it is. What we find at the top is a beautiful cave chapel, incredible!

Travelling alone, Ian is glad of some company and conversation. We enjoy a pleasant evening in a local bar, swopping travellers tales. Ian tells us that tomorrow there is a festival in town.

Georgia - Mountains

Fri 10th Oct

There are few major roads in Georgia, we take the one which goes in the direction of Tbilisi. Along the way we see crops of bamboo, citrus fruits and tea. The sun is shining and the sky is blue. We have left autumn in Turkey it seems and go back to shorts and T shirts. In the distance are the snow capped Caucuses.

Driving in Georgia is a style of its own. Overtaking appears to be something which is only done on blind corners! The roads are two lane, except when it comes to blind corners when the cars behind you overtake two abreast head on into two more cars doing exactly the same thing in the other direction! Somehow it works but it is hair raising. This, along with avoiding the inevitable wandering cows, donkeys, horses, dogs and for the first time since before Turkey, pigs.

Pulling off the road for the night, we drive down to a river bed. It is pleasant and out of sight but above us to the right is the main road and above to the left is a railway line. Neither stop all night, still we could certainly be in worse places!

Sat 11th Oct

Today we reach the town of Gori, famous for being the birth place of Stalin. In a modern motorway service station we manage not only to try our first cheese pie, a Georgian speciality, but also hook up to some internet. After much searching we purchase a phrase book and some tourist maps. Home for the night is beside a lake, up a long dirt road; found not by the newly acquired paper maps Richard was so desperate for but via my map.me app on the iPad! The paper maps do give us chance to plan a route taking in the three things that are must sees in Georgia: mountains, monasteries and wineries.

Sun 12th Oct

We follow the Georgian Military Road into the Caucuses. Here Autumn is in its full bronzen glory, it is spectacular. En route we stop at what we thought was going to be a fort but was actually a church, then on and on up the military road, which ends at the Russian boarder.

As we start to look for places to stop, Richard spots the Gergeti Trinity Church. It is at a height of 2,170m! Poor Fay! This time their are no cars or taxis, every vehicle is a 4 x 4. If I am totally grey by the time we return home, please google this place and the track to it! I might of been tempted to enter the church for a quick thank you but it's orthodox and they have as strange a view on women as the strict Moslems we encountered in Pakistan.

From the warmth and sunshine of this morning, we end the day with snow around us. We have had all four seasons today, thankfully all of them dry.

Into Georgia

Tues 7th Oct

If yesterday was spent admiring the flora then today it was the turn of the geology. Rather than taking the route directly to the coast, we took the more inland road. Salmon pink cliff faces edged with mauve Heather, not purple like we are accustomed to but more of a rich lilac. The pink gives way to a lovely maroon colour as the mineral content changes with each corner we turn. The state of the roads is, of course, aweful! We are not covering much mileage. Suddenly the rock type changes into what can only be described as toasted meringue. It was beautiful.

In this North Eastern most region of Turkey, there are the most massive reservoirs and dams, huge workings accompany them and the network of tunnels is on a par with the ants we watched yesterday. Look out for any signs of large doughy crumbs! On and on we go, tunnel after tunnel, pass after pass, it is quite claustrophobic. No likely camping spots here. Eventually as night falls we see a timber yard beside a now disused road, we tuck our selves away and prepare for the night.

Wed 8th Oct

After an early start, we arrive in Hopa the last coastal port of Turkey. A bit of shopping, change some money into Georgian Lari and prepare to leave Turkey for the second time.

Crossing into Georgia the difference of instantly noticeable. Our first view is that of a church. The last view of Turkey is of a mosque! On the beach, women are sunbathing in bikinis and the shops are either selling beer or they are casinos. As for the writing, well if we thought that Bulgarian was hard to understand, then Georgian is worse! To us it appears as just squiggles.

Our first hour in Georgia, is one of great contrasts. There are old rusty Ladas and new shiny Mercedes, there are very impressive modern architectural masterpieces and tumbledown shacks, modern motorways and roads to challenge anything we experienced in Pakistan. With no detailed map we head first for Batum and along the coast, then we spot a sign for a National Park, so turn off in search of camping.

Without too much difficulty we reach the Park. The road is atrocious, thank goodness Fay has four wheel drive. Picking our way along this single track dirt road with mud and pot holes, rocks and tree roots, we reach a Park map. The light is fading, this is as far as we want to go tonight. Whilst Richard goes down to the river to try a bit more fishing, I fiddle about in the van. A surprising number of vehicles pass by but the one which really takes the biscuit...a taxi!! We must be out and out softies??

Just before settling for the night, we see two sets of headlights pull up behind us. Oh no, don't say it's police or park rangers wanting to move us on? It wasn't. It was two VWs being driven by some young Czech travellers, they were also lost! Doing this road in the dark, they have more bottle than us!

Thurs 9th Oct

It is time for a day off from driving. We move about a mile down the road and find the official Park campsite. There before us, two Czech VWs! Today is time to relax and walk and generally do not a lot. Having borrowed a map from our Czech friends, we now have an idea of where we would like to visit in this small but different country.

Treasure not in the guide books

Mon 6th Oct

Today was a day that proved that sometimes the best finds are those not in the guide books. Bayburt was not the pretty town depicted in the book and the fortress was a sad rubbish dump. Parts had been poorly resorted and it was covered in years of modern graffiti. We leave disappointed, there are no signs as to where the underground city maybe and with the shabby fort in our minds, we abandon thoughts of looking for it. We'll head back to the coast.

Once out of the town, we cross the plains and enjoy a different landscape. For a while the mountains are in the distance and the plains stretch out before us. Brown tourist signs start to appear, all directing to the same place, more and more frequently we see them. I check the guide book for clues, then the useless phrase book. Nothing? Nowhere else we have been has been so well signposted, we know we will have to follow them.

What we find couldn't have been more unexpected. We had surmised about First World War museums, local handicraft museums and so on and so forth. Totally wrong! Here in the middle of nowhere is a very modern architecturally designed building which houses a very modern art gallery! Despite being Monday it is open. (Museums are usually closed on Mondays) We seem to have hit the jackpot, the Professor who founded the gallery is himself giving a guided tour to a group of Polish who are staying in the galleries guest suites. It is an amazing place, with exhibits of all sorts: ancient relics; modern prize winning pieces and a children's section. Scholarships are available for promising young artists. What a totally unexpected find!

As we journey on, the signs that autumn is taking a stronger hold are everywhere. The surrounding countryside has taken on all shades of yellow. Brilliant sunshine yellow of the poplar trees and pale lemon yellow of the grassy tufts. Our lunch stop finds us whiling away much more time than we were aware. Discovering that we had parked near a large ants nest, we watched these fascinating creatures organise themselves into overcoming the logistical problem we had set them, by dropping a large piece of crusty bread, too big to fit down their hole, into their midst. They did it, of course.

Back into more mountainous terrain, small red shrubs scatter the cliff sides, like hundreds of little bonfires. Then we spot what is possibly our most ideal wild campsite to date. With hills and trees around us and a river running by we park up early and enjoy peace and solitude, not even a mosque can be heard from here.

Supper is caught in the river and in the morning we cook toast over our little bonfire. Idyllic!