Bah Humbug!

Wed 17th sept

We have two very long days ahead of us, including the parts of the KKH the Karim had previously been trying to avoid. Despite the very bumpy road, which we are sort of used to by now, it was an enjoyable drive. Once again Pakistan's incredible scenery saved the day.

We were as ants, in comparison to the sheer cliff faces that surrounded us. There were, of course, rock falls. Huge stripy rocks, as if a jar of giant humbugs has fallen from the top shelf. At the end of "humbug valley" we came to Mother Natures Doodle Pad. Great mineral seams swirled and coursed across this enormous natural graffiti board. Miners work and live in the most dangerous of conditions, extracting gold, silver, precious and semi precious gems. Their death rate is very high, perched as they are half way up these mountainous rock faces, digging out caves; with, of course, not one bit of safety equipment in sight.

After 10 hours, we reach Chillas and our hotel for the night. By Pakistan standards, at first sight it appears reasonable. As usual though, the bathroom is filthy! It is beyond me to understand why a country and an industry, so desperate to resurrect their tourist trade, which was instantly killed dead by 9/11, would not clean a room when guests are expected? The lack of facilities is understandable and to be expected on such a trip. Pakistan does not have a constant electricity supply so things like internet and hot water are rare, fair enough. Why, oh why, though can they not clean what they have got???

Unusually, there is hot water here but we still can't shower as it is set to scolding and there is no cold! I discovered this after I had made an attempt to clean the bath of years of dirt and hair. There never had been a chance of me getting in with bare feet, as there was a dirty great hole in the bottom of the bath. No need for a bath plug, the water just goes through the hole, back up the open drain beside the bath and thence on to flood the floor! Yes, there was a sit down loo but it had no loo seat.

We discover later, that this whole area is to be dammed.(I already had!) so I could understand the lack of maintenance, no point paying out for a hotel that is destined to be at the bottom of a hydro dam but that is still no excuse for not keeping it clean!

No women work in hotels. By now I have my dander up, so my opinionated rant is that what Pakistan needs is strong dynamic women at all levels, to set the standards. Faint hope of that though, as hide themselves behind their veils, so downtrodden they don't even do their own shopping. That is done by the men, including clothing etc. generally women are just not seen. Wake up girls, where is your suffragette spirit? Are there no Ulster women craving peace, no Dagenham women to fight for rights?


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