The last three days and nights, we have been at our lowest ebb. The time we spent in Hunza was definitely the best part of the trip so far. The hotels were good, by Pakistan standards and although the people were poor, there was not the same level of deprivation, we were always met with smiles and friendliness, we felt comfortable browsing around the shops. Katherine and I both agreed that had the trip finished after the first week (which felt like a month, we had done and seen so much) that we would have left Pakistan with a quite different opinion.
This weekend is to be spent in Tarrishing, in a wooden shack with a tin roof! The journey here was extreme. This was the road that had been blocked by landslides and snow. En route we watch how the local people resolve the problem of a truck getting stuck under some cables; you bend the truck! Everyone is on constant watch of the precarious cliff faces. We pass through towns were the atmosphere is tangible, there is heavy army presence and once again we are escorted. Personally I would have felt happier with our band of dancing policemen, rather the the one aged one we have now. For the first time we see anti USA graffiti. We have already been made aware that to extremists there is no difference between Americans and Europeans.
As we traversed this adverse terrain, we did have to admit that this trip has shown us our own boundaries, this is as far out of our own comfort zones as we want to go. Fortunately, Richard and I have the same limits.
To give myself some lighthearted reassurance, I find myself imagining a heavenly switchboard. High tech Angelic telephone operators sort the calls into SOS's, non urgent requests and grateful thanks. Each deals with their allocated country. There in a darkened corner, is a dusty, old morse code receiver, set to pick up any random, silent prayers sent to a Christian God from the Islamic world. Well, may I please ask the busy switchboard operators to cast an occasional glance in that corner because if that receiver starts to vibrate, it will be me!!
After a bad nights sleep, we have a trekking day. Karim would have liked to take us to base camp but knows no one is now fit enough. With difficulty we reach a picnic spot and can go no further. The trek wasn't harder than the previous one but as a group we are weaker, the tummy upsets and subsequent reduction in food consumption, together with lack of sleep and the altitude is taking its toll on all of us.
Chris found a "short cut" across the rocks today, which I have to admit pushed me, not literally over the edge but certainly mentally. His route was far beyond my capabilities but Richard got me over it. In the most unladylike fashion I told Chris exactly what he could do with his next good idea! Oh dear, Trace, that's not good for group cohesion.
Karim is keeping a careful eye on the weather, it is raining on and off. Should the rain increase we have to quickly pack up and get in in jeeps before we became stranded by more landslides. In such a situation we would either have to sit it out or be helicoptered out!
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