Mon 27th Oct
We are up at 4am, for our last attempt to get airborne . Success! What an amazing experience, it was more than worth the early rising of the thwarted attempts. The minibus picked us up from the campsite and we were taken for early morning morning coffee and buns before proceeding to the take off site.
It was incredible to watch nearly a hundred balloons being inflated. Our pilot was excellent; we soared and dropped over trees and into valleys. We reached a height of 850m, making the famous fairy chimneys appear just the right size for fairies rather than the giants that tower above you, when you walk the valleys. The sun rose and rocks took up their colours: pink, red, yellow. The other balloons were all around, each basket load of tourists having their own adventure.
All too soon it was time to make the final descent. I could of stayed up there all day! With incredible skill, our pilot landed the basket perfectly onto the trailer of the jeep that was to take it home. I'm sure this must have been to the envy of passengers in the other balloons, who had the usual "tip up" landing. After a glass of champagne, we were back at our campsite by 8.30am. Wow! What a way to start a day. Fantastic!
We couldn't have had a better finale to our stay in Cappodocia, now it is time to move on towards the Med, though I have a feeling that this last week will be a highlight of our whole six months.
Fay
Saturday, 15 November 2014
Whirling Dervish
Sun 26th Oct
Today we spent walking the valleys; the Rose Valley and the Red Valley. So called due to the colour of the rocks in them. One of the wild dogs set out with us, showing us all the view points but when a group of friendly ladies came along he abandoned us for them. They looked a much softer touch, for a free lunch!
We wandered around the cave houses and churches, with much greater knowledge since our experience at Mazi. The so called fairy chimneys made sense; the pigeon holes we understood. Thousands of pigeons were kept, not only for there eggs but also for their droppings which was used a fertiliser in this otherwise barren landscape. Later the pigeons were also used for messaging. Above us towered the "mushrooms." What a unique landscape, Cappodocia has a beauty all of its own.
Whilst stopped for our picnic lunch, we gain a different dog. This one walks with us all the way back to the campsite. We arrive back at Kaya Camping in time to have a shower before going to the Dervish Ceremony, we had booked yesterday. There is a message for us from the balloon people. Would we like to take an evening flight, now!! Evening flights only run when the companies are playing "catch up." The problem is, we may or may not be back in time for the dervishes and we have already paid for that. We decline the offer and take a gamble on tomorrow morning being fine. As it turns out, in the end no balloons went up for the sunset flight. We are told to be at the gate for 4.30am, this is even earlier than before? No, the clocks had changed and we didn't know!!!
The whirling dervish Ceremony was something quite different. It is a religious ceremony, whose roots are in the Sufi sect of Islam. As such I was glad that we hadn't seen them as part of an entertainment programme as seen in many hotels and restaurants. The place we went, was a proper Dervish Lodge, the full ceremony was conducted in an underground cave so very atmospheric. It did feel strange though, as it was rather like paying to watch someone say their prayers?
Today we spent walking the valleys; the Rose Valley and the Red Valley. So called due to the colour of the rocks in them. One of the wild dogs set out with us, showing us all the view points but when a group of friendly ladies came along he abandoned us for them. They looked a much softer touch, for a free lunch!
We wandered around the cave houses and churches, with much greater knowledge since our experience at Mazi. The so called fairy chimneys made sense; the pigeon holes we understood. Thousands of pigeons were kept, not only for there eggs but also for their droppings which was used a fertiliser in this otherwise barren landscape. Later the pigeons were also used for messaging. Above us towered the "mushrooms." What a unique landscape, Cappodocia has a beauty all of its own.
Whilst stopped for our picnic lunch, we gain a different dog. This one walks with us all the way back to the campsite. We arrive back at Kaya Camping in time to have a shower before going to the Dervish Ceremony, we had booked yesterday. There is a message for us from the balloon people. Would we like to take an evening flight, now!! Evening flights only run when the companies are playing "catch up." The problem is, we may or may not be back in time for the dervishes and we have already paid for that. We decline the offer and take a gamble on tomorrow morning being fine. As it turns out, in the end no balloons went up for the sunset flight. We are told to be at the gate for 4.30am, this is even earlier than before? No, the clocks had changed and we didn't know!!!
The whirling dervish Ceremony was something quite different. It is a religious ceremony, whose roots are in the Sufi sect of Islam. As such I was glad that we hadn't seen them as part of an entertainment programme as seen in many hotels and restaurants. The place we went, was a proper Dervish Lodge, the full ceremony was conducted in an underground cave so very atmospheric. It did feel strange though, as it was rather like paying to watch someone say their prayers?
Mazi Underground City
Sat 25th Oct
Our third attempt to go up in a hot air balloon fails, so we go "grockling" and become tourists for the day! We visit Gerome, it is interesting but we have found places as good during our own explorations.
From there we go to less well known tourist attraction. Mazi Underground City. It is a great find with a guide so full of character, he is as much a part of the attraction as the place itself. Wearing a leather Stetson, he approaches the van as we arrive at what looks like a building site. "Do you want to visit the cave city?" He asks " come, have tea and I will take you." Whilst we drink the cay, a minibus arrives with a small group of German ladies. He was waiting for them, we tagged along. This cave city is still being excavated, renovated and evolved into something much more than it currently is. In a few years time Mazi could take over from the currently better known cave cities; it has the potential to be huge.
Our guide gave us torches and led us all through rooms and chambers, explaining as we went their use and the lives of the people who used to live there. We saw the sleeping quarters, the kitchens, the pigeon lofts and the wine presses. The wine press was interesting; a square stone basin into which the grapes were placed and then trodden. As the juice was extracted, it flowed through small holes to a chamber below. All this and every activity would have been by candle light!
Then we came to a point where we had to choose either to go back or to continue. To continue meant climbing up narrow, vertical tunnels with roughly hewn footholds and occasional ropes! This is not usually my cup of tea, I am far too much of a whimp for such activities. Richard, though, opts to continue. I leave with most of the Germans and the guide and head to the exit. As we see daylight, he says to me " don't go, you can do it. If you get scared I will help you." I try to protest that I am not agile enough to climb such ascents but he offers to carry me on his shoulders if necessary, to prove himself strong enough he picks me up as if I were a feather! I give in and to Richard's great surprise, return to where he and two German girls were waiting.
It took all my courage and strength to get up these potholes but true to his word, my guide was there behind me, with words of encouragement and the odd push. Because the guide was behind me, I had no idea how far the ascents were. (Must go on and on into the darkness.) Once the two of us were at the top, he would shine his torch down for the others. For them there was light at the end of the tunnel. The tunnels, I refused in the anyali church were a piece of cake, compared to these! I will admit that there was more than one occasion, when I had to have a quick word with myself! "There is no going back, don't freak yourself out, get on with it, stop thinking and climb!" At one ascent, my guide went in front, as I neared the top I became unexpectedly airborne, lithely I was hauled up like a fish on a line!
We had climbed, crawled and scrambled through this incredible cave city. It is almost beyond belief that people could have lived as they did. Our guide taught us much and I was so pleased that I agreed to go back with him. He was an excellent guide, with a great sense of humour and fun.
For anyone thinking of visiting Mazi the truth is, so long as you are reasonably fit and not claustrophobic, then summon your courage and do the whole thing; it is well worth it.
Back at the campsite a much needed shower was called for, we were aching and filthy, exhausted but happy.
Our third attempt to go up in a hot air balloon fails, so we go "grockling" and become tourists for the day! We visit Gerome, it is interesting but we have found places as good during our own explorations.
From there we go to less well known tourist attraction. Mazi Underground City. It is a great find with a guide so full of character, he is as much a part of the attraction as the place itself. Wearing a leather Stetson, he approaches the van as we arrive at what looks like a building site. "Do you want to visit the cave city?" He asks " come, have tea and I will take you." Whilst we drink the cay, a minibus arrives with a small group of German ladies. He was waiting for them, we tagged along. This cave city is still being excavated, renovated and evolved into something much more than it currently is. In a few years time Mazi could take over from the currently better known cave cities; it has the potential to be huge.
Our guide gave us torches and led us all through rooms and chambers, explaining as we went their use and the lives of the people who used to live there. We saw the sleeping quarters, the kitchens, the pigeon lofts and the wine presses. The wine press was interesting; a square stone basin into which the grapes were placed and then trodden. As the juice was extracted, it flowed through small holes to a chamber below. All this and every activity would have been by candle light!
Then we came to a point where we had to choose either to go back or to continue. To continue meant climbing up narrow, vertical tunnels with roughly hewn footholds and occasional ropes! This is not usually my cup of tea, I am far too much of a whimp for such activities. Richard, though, opts to continue. I leave with most of the Germans and the guide and head to the exit. As we see daylight, he says to me " don't go, you can do it. If you get scared I will help you." I try to protest that I am not agile enough to climb such ascents but he offers to carry me on his shoulders if necessary, to prove himself strong enough he picks me up as if I were a feather! I give in and to Richard's great surprise, return to where he and two German girls were waiting.
It took all my courage and strength to get up these potholes but true to his word, my guide was there behind me, with words of encouragement and the odd push. Because the guide was behind me, I had no idea how far the ascents were. (Must go on and on into the darkness.) Once the two of us were at the top, he would shine his torch down for the others. For them there was light at the end of the tunnel. The tunnels, I refused in the anyali church were a piece of cake, compared to these! I will admit that there was more than one occasion, when I had to have a quick word with myself! "There is no going back, don't freak yourself out, get on with it, stop thinking and climb!" At one ascent, my guide went in front, as I neared the top I became unexpectedly airborne, lithely I was hauled up like a fish on a line!
We had climbed, crawled and scrambled through this incredible cave city. It is almost beyond belief that people could have lived as they did. Our guide taught us much and I was so pleased that I agreed to go back with him. He was an excellent guide, with a great sense of humour and fun.
For anyone thinking of visiting Mazi the truth is, so long as you are reasonably fit and not claustrophobic, then summon your courage and do the whole thing; it is well worth it.
Back at the campsite a much needed shower was called for, we were aching and filthy, exhausted but happy.
Waiting for a ballon!
Thur 23rd Oct
We are up before light but it is too windy for the balloons to take off, so we return to bed! Today is lazily spent shopping in Urgup. Urgup is a nice town with interesting shops and friendly people, we indulge ourselves and have a traditional lunch in one of its restaurants. Then time to walk the lunch off before watching the sun go down over Sunset Hill. We know we are very lucky to be able to do what we are doing. These six months are precious days which we will treasure. We will try again tomorrow to get our balloon ride.
Fri 24th Oct
Again we are unlucky, the wind is still too high to fly. Instead we go to a bird sanctuary and see wild flamingos. On the way back there is time for a quick exploration of Sognali valley.
We are up before light but it is too windy for the balloons to take off, so we return to bed! Today is lazily spent shopping in Urgup. Urgup is a nice town with interesting shops and friendly people, we indulge ourselves and have a traditional lunch in one of its restaurants. Then time to walk the lunch off before watching the sun go down over Sunset Hill. We know we are very lucky to be able to do what we are doing. These six months are precious days which we will treasure. We will try again tomorrow to get our balloon ride.
Fri 24th Oct
Again we are unlucky, the wind is still too high to fly. Instead we go to a bird sanctuary and see wild flamingos. On the way back there is time for a quick exploration of Sognali valley.
Thursday, 23 October 2014
Cappodocia
Tue 21st Oct
Our first job of the day; look for mouse poo! None, hoorah, let's hope that is the end of our rodent experiences.
Having driven all day, we reach Urgup a potential base for our explorations of Cappodocia. We opt for a proper campsite tonight. Although there are numerous wild camping options, there is also the first still open campsite here, so the opportunity of a hot shower, wifi and even a washing machine win!
We have a fantastic view over the valley, a great place to watch the famous hot air balloons take flight over the fairy chimneys.
Wed 22nd Oct
A day to chill and do some chores. The luxury of a hot shower is sublime! We take a walk to a near by rock church and Monastery, very ancient and interesting. Tomorrow we need to be up before dawn for our hot air balloon trip.
Thur 23rd Oct
We are up before light but it is too windy for the balloons to take off, so we return to bed! Today is lazily spent shopping in Urgup. Urgup is a nice town with interesting shops and friendly people, we indulge ourselves and have a traditional lunch in one of its restaurants. Then time to walk the lunch off before watching the sun go down over Sunset Hill. We know we are very lucky to be able to do what we are doing. These six months are precious days which we will treasure. We will try again tomorrow to get our balloon ride.
Our first job of the day; look for mouse poo! None, hoorah, let's hope that is the end of our rodent experiences.
Having driven all day, we reach Urgup a potential base for our explorations of Cappodocia. We opt for a proper campsite tonight. Although there are numerous wild camping options, there is also the first still open campsite here, so the opportunity of a hot shower, wifi and even a washing machine win!
We have a fantastic view over the valley, a great place to watch the famous hot air balloons take flight over the fairy chimneys.
Wed 22nd Oct
A day to chill and do some chores. The luxury of a hot shower is sublime! We take a walk to a near by rock church and Monastery, very ancient and interesting. Tomorrow we need to be up before dawn for our hot air balloon trip.
Thur 23rd Oct
We are up before light but it is too windy for the balloons to take off, so we return to bed! Today is lazily spent shopping in Urgup. Urgup is a nice town with interesting shops and friendly people, we indulge ourselves and have a traditional lunch in one of its restaurants. Then time to walk the lunch off before watching the sun go down over Sunset Hill. We know we are very lucky to be able to do what we are doing. These six months are precious days which we will treasure. We will try again tomorrow to get our balloon ride.
Central Anatolia
Mon 20th Oct
As soon as it is light enough, we start a total strip of the van. Fortunately, yesterday's rain has gone but there is snow on the surrounding mountains so at this early hour it is very cold. Every cupboard is turned out, panels are unscrewed every conceivable hiding place a mouse might favour is investigated. It appears, after doing a thorough poo inspection, our unwanted guests arrived in the night; somehow gaining access either by the drivers side or the engine as there we droppings under the driver seat and on the engine block. From there it was easy enough to find the kitchen, vegetable store and bread bag.
By the time we had finished our major strip down of Fay it was 10.30am and we were freezing. Today breakfast was a hot cup of soup! We have found no more mice. Is that a comfort or a worry? We are both tired, not having slept but know that the chance of a good nights sleep tonight will be slim; we will be awake listening!
To take our minds off our mouse problems, we visit some very pretty waterfalls.
The closer we get to our next area of Turkey, so the landscape and the friendliness of the people start to change. The baker, where we buy bread for us and as mouse bait, is very jolly. When we are seen looking for and early parking site for the night, a restauranteur beckons over. His name is Hassan, we are welcome to stay in his grounds. He gives us Cay and we chat to other people there. None speak English but this doesn't seem to hamper communication. We enjoy a meal of fish and salad, then Hassan looks with interest at our many photos of our trip so far. He invites us to eat some potatoes with him and his twin sons. Potatoes turns out to be a full spread; pide (a sort of pizza but different), bread, potatoes, olives, cheese and delicious honeycomb. We have a lovely evening and thankfully a peaceful night.
As soon as it is light enough, we start a total strip of the van. Fortunately, yesterday's rain has gone but there is snow on the surrounding mountains so at this early hour it is very cold. Every cupboard is turned out, panels are unscrewed every conceivable hiding place a mouse might favour is investigated. It appears, after doing a thorough poo inspection, our unwanted guests arrived in the night; somehow gaining access either by the drivers side or the engine as there we droppings under the driver seat and on the engine block. From there it was easy enough to find the kitchen, vegetable store and bread bag.
By the time we had finished our major strip down of Fay it was 10.30am and we were freezing. Today breakfast was a hot cup of soup! We have found no more mice. Is that a comfort or a worry? We are both tired, not having slept but know that the chance of a good nights sleep tonight will be slim; we will be awake listening!
To take our minds off our mouse problems, we visit some very pretty waterfalls.
The closer we get to our next area of Turkey, so the landscape and the friendliness of the people start to change. The baker, where we buy bread for us and as mouse bait, is very jolly. When we are seen looking for and early parking site for the night, a restauranteur beckons over. His name is Hassan, we are welcome to stay in his grounds. He gives us Cay and we chat to other people there. None speak English but this doesn't seem to hamper communication. We enjoy a meal of fish and salad, then Hassan looks with interest at our many photos of our trip so far. He invites us to eat some potatoes with him and his twin sons. Potatoes turns out to be a full spread; pide (a sort of pizza but different), bread, potatoes, olives, cheese and delicious honeycomb. We have a lovely evening and thankfully a peaceful night.
Wednesday, 22 October 2014
A change of direction & an uninvited guest!
Sun 19th Oct
We see no more of the shepherds and leave in the morning. The area we are driving through is very militarised, town after town of police, soldiers, barbed wire and armoured vehicles. Whether it is because these region borders Syria or whether it is, to borrow a phrase from our Pakistani Guide, Karim, because of the "nervousness" between the Turks and the Kurds, we do not know.
Over coffee we both agree that we are not enjoying this area and so decide to forego visiting Abraham's birthplace and some ancient giant stone heads and turn northwards. A more direct route to Cappodocia is favourable, plus it is raining today so a long drive is not a hardship. Once again, memories of Pakistan are stirred as we see low stone houses with turf roofs and mounds of dried cow pats, ready for use as the winter fuel supply. All along the road are so many dead animals. The inevitable dogs who forgot their green cross code but also several sheep, a cow and even a donkey still with his head collar on!
We find a parking place with a good view, up an old disused road and look forward to a quiet night. This was not to be, Fay had unwanted visitors in the night! Beside the old road was a cliff face, there was evidence of some minor rock falls but only small stones and we were parked beyond the point they had reached. We settled down to sleep but could hear small rocks slithering down? I felt a bit concerned but Richard reassured all was well. I lay there, unable to relax. Another sound, this time, rustling and it sounded as if it were inside the van!
This is too much, I wake Richard who half awake, half asleep tells me to put the light on if I'm worried; I do. The bread bag is moving!!! Quick as a flash, Richard is up and out of the van, bread bag complete with gorging mouse are dispensed. This is the end of any thoughts of sleep for either of us. The falling rock sound wasn't, it was scrabbling mice. How many, though? We dress and sat upon the bed for fear of any unwanted guests under being under the bed and pass the hours till daylight playing cards and worrying! How did they get in? How long have they been there?
Sent from my iPad
We see no more of the shepherds and leave in the morning. The area we are driving through is very militarised, town after town of police, soldiers, barbed wire and armoured vehicles. Whether it is because these region borders Syria or whether it is, to borrow a phrase from our Pakistani Guide, Karim, because of the "nervousness" between the Turks and the Kurds, we do not know.
Over coffee we both agree that we are not enjoying this area and so decide to forego visiting Abraham's birthplace and some ancient giant stone heads and turn northwards. A more direct route to Cappodocia is favourable, plus it is raining today so a long drive is not a hardship. Once again, memories of Pakistan are stirred as we see low stone houses with turf roofs and mounds of dried cow pats, ready for use as the winter fuel supply. All along the road are so many dead animals. The inevitable dogs who forgot their green cross code but also several sheep, a cow and even a donkey still with his head collar on!
We find a parking place with a good view, up an old disused road and look forward to a quiet night. This was not to be, Fay had unwanted visitors in the night! Beside the old road was a cliff face, there was evidence of some minor rock falls but only small stones and we were parked beyond the point they had reached. We settled down to sleep but could hear small rocks slithering down? I felt a bit concerned but Richard reassured all was well. I lay there, unable to relax. Another sound, this time, rustling and it sounded as if it were inside the van!
This is too much, I wake Richard who half awake, half asleep tells me to put the light on if I'm worried; I do. The bread bag is moving!!! Quick as a flash, Richard is up and out of the van, bread bag complete with gorging mouse are dispensed. This is the end of any thoughts of sleep for either of us. The falling rock sound wasn't, it was scrabbling mice. How many, though? We dress and sat upon the bed for fear of any unwanted guests under being under the bed and pass the hours till daylight playing cards and worrying! How did they get in? How long have they been there?
Sent from my iPad
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