Fay's turn to paddle!

Wed 23rd Dec

We left oasis camping, following a route plan devised the night before across small roads towards the Anti Atlas Mountains. It is a windy day, meaning that until we reach the mountains we are driving through an orange, sandy mist. Had it not been for the sand storm, we may have ventured further into the Sahara but on hearing that this wind has prevailed for the last four days we opted for the mountains instead.

The pre planned route was going well until we reach a road closed sign. However, the sign is laying down. Does this mean the road is no longer closed or that the wind has blown the sign over? Only one way to find out! On we go over places that have clearly been either cleared or hastily repaired until we reach a missing bridge! We are so close to our next junction, we can see the town we are heading to on the other side of the river. Time for Fay to prove herself once again, we take her for a paddle up stream. She does spin a bit; I expect the riverbed stones are hard on her girly feet? She does it! Emerging out the other side, to the waving approval of the road workers. Good old Fay!

By late afternoon we have reached the town of Tafraoute. We check out the three campsites plus a couple more further out, they are all much of a muchness, so pick the one with the prettiest name! This area is noted for the Lion rock, a large rock bearing the face of a lion. It's not quite Aslan, so somewhat disappointing after we have driven so far to see it.

The welcome at the site is warm, we will see what tomorrow brings. Whatever that maybe it won't involve baking mince pies!

The high road, the low road or NO road!

Mon 22nd Dec

We did leave this morning. Driving on through Sidi Infi, the town which lost all bar one of its campsites in the rain, as well as buildings, roads and bridges. There is a great deal of work to be done here. The road we expected would take us onward, is seriously no more! It has completely disappeared. We won't be joining the Foreign Legion after all! Instead we take the only other road that is open; we'll see where we end up?

The landscape begins to change as we leave the coast. Before our time at Abdul's, we had driven through Argan tree plantations, now we were driving through cactus plantations. Soon it was sand, sand and more sand. With a few palm trees in the mix I was starting to warm to this Moroccan scenery. Now all I need is a camel!

Our campsite tonight is very different but very friendly, different area, different people maybe? It is a small, long established site surrounded by sand dunes and palm trees. We are welcomed with mint tea, which we watch being brewed, it is quite a long, drawn out procedure but worth it. Even I am enjoying the sweet mintyness, usually it's PG tips all the way for me!

Legzira

Fri 19th -Sun 21st Dec

We continued to do very little for even longer! It was so nice to have finally found a place which was not only friendly but also wanted to set good standards. Our host, Abdul, may not have been the first genuine Moroccan we have encountered but he is definitely the first about whom we never had even a momentary doubt. Part of what we have struggled to become accustomed to is the constant "hassling." Until now there has always been someone either trying to sell something, beg, ask for cigarettes/clothes/bicycles, faux guides etc. etc. Hence, Morocco has not been an easy country to relax in and there is absolutely nowhere to hide; even in seemingly the middle of nowhere a person will immediately pop up! So finding Erkounte Camping is a much needed respite.

Apart from enjoying the sun, we walked on the beach, sunbathed a bit and took tea with Abdul; sweet Moroccan mint tea served with honeyed pancakes.

We thought to leave on Sunday but got only as far as Legzira before turning back for another night at Erkounte Camping. Our neighbour, a lone, French fisherman said he was pleased we had returned, as we always speak to him. Abdul said he knew we would be back! Tonight he cooks for us in the restaurant. It is the best meal we have had in Morocco, a delicious salad followed by the most tasty of fish tagines all accompanied with Abdul's homemade bread. To finish, of course, tea and pancakes! This may of been our Christmas dinner??

Legzira was a place we were pleased to find. For sometime we had been trying to locate an un- identified photograph in the guide book of a large rock arch. We found it at Legzira, it is massive; set in deep red cliffs which reminded me of the cliffs at Sidmouth in Devon, these though are a much deeper red in colour, more the ox blood red of an old Chesterfield. There is more than one arch but it is the largest which really steals the show; Durdle Door would be dwarfed by this beast. Richard commented that I have started comparing places to home. Maybe? Perhaps because the time is creeping on? Not that we will find a cream tea here, though! No matter, back to Abdul for honey pancakes instead.

Erkounte Camping - a real Moroccan gem

Thurs 18th Dec

Neither of us had a good nights sleep last night; the site had blazing lights and was noisy, a down side to its position. Whilst still wishing to head further south but not feeling up to a long day, we set off in search of a nicer campsite. Again we see how destructive Mother Nature can be, the effects of the floods are all too apparent. Some towns still have no drinking water, there are bowsers beside rapidly repaired roadways. These repairs, by necessity, are make shift, single track dirt roads.

Before reaching Sidi Ifni, a town mentioned in the Foreign Office advise website as being cut off, we pass a very nice looking site. It is not on any of our maps or guides. It looks so clean I suggest that we turn round and stop there. This campsite is a jewel of a find. It has only been open a week. The owner is very friendly and welcoming, he is rightly so proud of his site. We are given an enthusiastic guided tour of the facilities, the restaurant, the shop and the terrace. This is a very "hands on" proprietor. He tells us how he has built this site and how after running a restaurant in Denmark for 15 years, he returned with his family to his home land. Now he is actively doing all he can to help the small village from which he came. It was the men from his village who have been employed in the building work. He needed to employ the old men to build the traditional outer wall, such building skills are a dying art now. Since the "men's work" is finished, it is now the women's turn to work here, in the kitchen and keeping everywhere spotless. Our host has great plans for his venture, as we learn over cups of Moroccan mint tea and sweet pancakes. Now this is a site I could understand people "long terming it," in.

Abdul tells us that of the four campsites in Sidi Ifni, now only one remains! How terrifying a storm it must have been.

What follows is a very relaxing day, sat in the sun, clear skies above and a calm blue sea below. A good place to do very little!

Tiznit

Wed 17th Dec

As promised the gasman arrived, complete with red, British cylinder the correct size. The price is good and we happily tell him to keep our old cylinder and give him the Turkish one as well. All parties are well satisfied with this transaction.

Happy to move on from somewhere akin to Toromolinos, we reach to town of Tiznit. It is famous for the 5k mud and sand wall which surrounds it. It is impressive and must require almost constant maintenance. Inside is the kasbah. We find the campsite we had earlier read about, which is alongside the wall. It's location is good but again it's facilities leave more than a little to be desired. It is a little less packed than the Agadir site. We are starting to think that Morocco is actually a suburb of France! I am still at a loss to know why people long term on sites like these?

It was the wall we wanted to see though, so a night here will do. There are some other Brits here, they were caught in the floods, cut off at Sidi Ifni for a while until the road could be repaired. They tell us that as far as they know the road to the Foreign Legion Fort we were hoping to camp at, is still impassable.

We walk along the wall and into the kasbah. Tiznit is also famous for its silverware. Earlier on in the day, we thought it wise to fill Fay right up with diesel in case there were shortages further on. This we did, in a modern filling station which accepts Visa card. The only problem was that having filled right up and presented the card, the attendant then discovered that the line connection was still down! Consequently, our fill up cleaned us out of nearly all the cash we had on us. Since we were not intending spending more today, this shouldn't have been a problem and indeed it wouldn't have were it not for a certain very pretty sliver, filigree bracelet! The bargaining for this, over a cup of mint tea, concluded in us leaving the shop with only one dirham between us and Richard minus his wallet! The trader had taken a liking to Richard's Animal branded wallet, so once emptied, took this in part exchange for my handcrafted piece of prettiness. Whatever the actual value of the bracelet maybe, it now has sentimental value attached!

Gassing in Agadir

Tues 16th Dec

After a shower, which would pass even Ant camping Ahmed's standards of cleanliness (clean toilets and showers have become my biggest luxury) we leave by mid day. Neither of us wanted to, the sky was blue and the sun shining strongly enough for shorts and vests, a day sat about here would have been no hardship at all. However, we have a practical need - gas. Sourcing gas for cooking is not as straight forward as it ought to be, our English cylinder is finished and for reasons beyond me, gas, connectors and regulators are not universal. Even the colours of the cylinders, identifying the type of gas inside differs, so what we expect of a red or blue cylinder is not so.

Before leaving Turkey, we purchased a small Turkish type cylinder. It has only been Richard's know how, that has enabled us to us it. Now in Morocco neither English or Turkish types are available, added to this is that Fay's petite rear end reduces our options further; a fat bottle just won't fit!

Yesterday, we found a gas man who is prepared to refill our English cylinder but he can't do it until tomorrow. He tells us to meet him at a certain campsite in Agadir at 11am on Wednesday. So we remain is this area today. It has been a while since we had a day on a beach, luckily it is a warm, sunny day.

Mid afternoon sees us pull into the type of site we would never ordinarily frequent. It is packed, with little more room between vans than a supermarket carpark. The toilets and showers are barely fit for purpose. There is only one "sit upon" in the ladies; it doesn't flush and the door does not even close, let alone lock. Yet for some totally mystifying reason this site is full of "long termers," that is to say, retired Europeans in large motorhomes, staying here for the winter. Why???

The site is close to the centre of Agadir. To relieve the claustrophobia of the site we take a walk along the prom. Agadir is much more euro tourist friendly, there isn't the same edginess of the other places we have been. So for the long termers, Agadir provides a more comfortable atmosphere, less language issues, warm sunshine and a lovely long beach. I still don't understand the choice of campsite though?

Having decided to eat out, we peruse the menus of the many restaurants on the prom, then I spot a sign further along: Pakistani restaurant it says. Usually, we try to eat the food of what ever country we are in but it has been nearly there months now, since we left Pakistan and as the many good memories of our time there start to dim the not so good ones, we opt for a curry tonight. It was, of course, nothing like the food we had in Pakistan though the waiter did tell us he had a Hindi chef. (Not that there are many Hindis in Pakistan) None the less, we made a toast to Karim, our valiant guide for three weeks, and reminisced over our time in his country. When next we email Karim, we shall tell him of the evening we spent watching a Moroccan sunset whilst our minds were much further east.



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Paradise Lost!

Mon 15th Dec

In the hopes of reaching the Sahara by Christmas, we continue south to Agadir. Just short of the city is the road to Paradise Valley, with its rock formations, waterfalls and palmeries. Unfortunately, it seems that for now at least, paradise has been washed away! We drive as far as we can until we get to the road block. We are allowed to walk on after the block and see the collapsed road, the trucks and diggers doing their best to repair it and the definitely non paradise like views. We are shocked by the evidence of just how high the water was.

A quiet campsite is home for tonight whilst we revise our route plan. An unexpected delight came in form of a chap selling cakes on the site. In Morocco there is always someone selling something; his were the most delicious naughty but nice treats, perfect macaroons and a variation on a cream slice, the usual feather icing and puff pastry but instead of cream - banana! Very fattening, very more-ish and very very delicious!

Essaouira

Sat 13th Dec

Continuing south on the Atlantic coast road, we get a taste of the bad weather Morocco has been experiencing. The wind and rain blew us all over the road. It isn't pleasant driving but on a day like like today but we stick to our adage, if it's a raining day, its a driving day.

On reaching Safi, we decide enough is enough and pull in to a campsite. Campsites are plentiful in Morocco and the majority are open. With the rain still pouring down, we abandon any thoughts of an evening stroll into town and settle down for another evening playing cards. We learnt much from our Pakistan adventure, not least our two new favourite card games!

Sun 14th Dec

Before leaving the campsite, we chat to some fellow Brits. They took the plunge, sold everything, bought a very large Motorhome and have become "full timers." That is to say permanent travellers.

Our destination for today is Essaouira. It is not too far, so we should be there before lunchtime. On the road between Safi and Essaouira, we see some of the devastation we had been forewarned of. The earlier storms and flash floods have ripped through this area leaving great washouts behind them. One village in particular had suffered terribly, the inhabitants were still clearing up after the mud slide. It must have been terrifying.

Essaouira is much more on the tourist trail. On an average package holiday, some of the sights we have seen would remain unknown. It is because of the smaller roads we have taken that we have encountered the reminders of Pakistan. This is why we have been told that it takes four weeks to become acclimatised to Morocco and accustomed to its people.

The harbour is very pleasant, it's fort was used in an Orson Wells film. The little shops and their goods are all very much as to be expected. Haggling over the prices is all part of the experience. In a local restaurant, we enjoy some of the towns main export - sardines. There is no shortage of cats under the table to share our fish. These are some of the fattest cats we have met, they are clearly very adept at looking cute! It works and we too, share ours.

We spend the remainder of day wandering the town and it's ramparts. Then, in common with half a dozen other campers, stay the night in the carpark.

Casablanca to El Jadida

Thurs 11th Dec

We didn't intend staying two nights but by the time we had enjoyed, yes, a hot shower and done our various chores (tyre pressures, loo emptying, water filling etc.) time was getting on. There is wifi here, but painfully slow. With Christmas approaching and no idea of when we may next have internet or how much slower it may get the further we go, we knuckle down to some on line shopping. Fingers crossed these small tokens arrive??

Nearby is a supermarket, so a good opportunity to grocery shop. An interesting experience, not feeling wholly confident in Morocco yet, we took the easy option of supermarket shopping rather than frequenting the tiny Pakistani style huts. The supermarket was as large as any super store at home and similarly laid out, there were though a couple of noticeable extras. Namely, crickets chirruping and small birds flying from the rafters, pooping in the veg and pecking at the bread! Having loaded our trolley with wrapped products, we are all set to be back on the road tomorrow.

Fri 12th Dec

Yet more vehicles have arrived in this surprisingly popular campsite. Motor homes and overlanders, we talk to a few and swop routes and tips. One couple are on their way to Turkey, we are more than happy to tell of places not to be missed. Another guy is en route to Cape Town, all alone. That would definitely be too much for either of us! We hear that there has been terrible flooding in the south and that some roads in the Atlas are not just impassable, they no longer exist! We may have to revise our route plan?

As all the guide books say, Casablanca is one of those places that is better in the imagination than it is in reality. None the less, when you are this close, it has to be done! The Hassan Mosque is very impressive, it is huge, second only in size to Mecca. Being Friday, we weren't able to do more than view the outside and read about it. Fifty million pounds, the cost of building it and almost within its shadow, people live in little more than mud huts! Another reminder of Pakistan.

After coffee and cake in the town that should be so much more romantic than it really is, we continue on to El Jadida. It's another campsite tonight, neither of us are quite sure about wild camping just yet. Having driven most of the day, a good leg stretch is called for so we take a long walk into town and into the Portuguese quarter. The daylight is fading and there is no street lighting here, we backtrack to the main town. Here like Asilah it has become a bustling marketplace. I am starting to think that Morocco maybe one big car boot sale?

Asilah to Mohamedia

Tue 9th Dec

In the morning we awaken to see our overloaded companions parked nearby, how ever did they sleep in that car? After finding an ATM, we set off, as is our want, on the coast road. We knew we were leaving Europe even before departing the Italian docks, we certainly know it now. Yes, this is different, there are a few reminders of the very rural areas of Turkey, there are also reminiscences of Pakistan!!

Our first nights stop is in the town of Asilah. There is a carpark that has Motorhome overnight parking. The carpark attendant is an elderly chap, tall and thin, he is friendly and helpful. He directs us to the walled town, which we explore. It is a very "arty" place. We have lunch and then return to Fay. Our car park man is involved in a ruckus, between some youths. We keep a low profile.

In the evening we return to the town after watching the sun go down. The town is busy with people shopping. The streets have given way to a sort of market place, impromptu stalls sell everything and anything, where there is not a stall, goods are sold on the pavement.

The dress of choice for the men is a full length cloak, with a pointed hood. Very practical and traditional, we cannot help but give in to the mischievous thought that we appear to have descended into a town full of Obi wan Kanobi's!!

Wed 10th Dec

In the morning our carpark man is involved in yet another altocation. He is too old to be engaged in fisti cuffs again, once maybe unfortunate but twice seems like a hobby. Time to leave.

The next major town en route and one which is on the tourist trail is Rabat. On the way we pass more Pakistani style habitats. As we near the town there is a sharp increase in police an army presence, along with car and coach loads of football supporters. Supporters behaving as football supporters do the world over. We discover that there is a period of major football tournaments in Rabat, starting today! Since the military deem it necessary to have such a large input into the event, we decide to leave Rabat to FIFA and continue on until we find a small campsite a few miles short of Casablanca.

A funny little site, surrounded on three sides by building sites. The forth side is the angry Atlantic with massive waves, to delight any surfer. Despite all the building going on around us, the campsite is busy? We are not sure why, are the others shut? Is this one cheap? Is it the only one with hot showers? I guess only time will tell us that.

Would you like a cup of tea?

Sun 7th Dec

Early afternoon sees us dock in Barcelona. By 4 pm the ferry is on the second leg of its journey. There is time to phone home to hear that all is well. Bill has deteriorated no further, is comfortable and being well cared for by the staff of his nursing home. His condition is, for now, stable.

Some passengers disembarked in Spain and others boarded. We pass the time on this long voyage people watching and playing our Pakistani card games, that and trying to decipher the tannoy announcements. These aren't always in English and when they are there is so much noise because everyone else has stopped listening, that they are impossible to understand. Follow the crowd seems the answer? Maybe?? Every cabin is taken, so although ours is an inner cabin, we are glad of it. Lacking daylight also helps to pass the time, as we have no idea what the time is!!

Mon 8th Dec

As we sit having coffee in one of the lounges, we see both dolphins and minky whales playing in the wake our ship leaves behind her. This makes the long ferry crossing worth all these hours aboard.

Land Ho, at last! Spot on its ETA of 6pm European time, we dock in Tangier. It came as no surprise that the off loading of the ship was under the direction of the passengers! Not a crew member in sight. Somehow everyone got off, though not all in one piece. There were those who had broken down on loading, those who broke down off loading; some were towed off others pushed. Then we watched as already seriously overloaded vehicles were loaded even further. Somehow extra foot passengers were to be squeezed in. One had a suitcase. To get him and his case in the car meant unloading the roof and the passenger seat. The new passenger then went in search of various wooden wedges to ram under the roof rack, as extra support (no thought for the paintwork.) The whole load which included a fridge freezer as well as his suitcase and the mirriade of other items, were then stacked high upon the car, making this poor Audi well over twice its usual height. This car may not be such a sought after Audi on the secondhand market?

We had plenty of time to watch all that was going on - we were parked up, unable to formally enter the country! In amongst the unintelligible announcements on board was apparently one informing all passengers that they must get their passports stamped by an immigration officer before leaving the ship! Oh dear.

Innocently, we disembarked, glad to see that Fay had survived her voyage; we said Bon jour to the young, tall and handsome policeman on the dockside and handed him our passports as instructed. Baffled he flipped through them both and then again before asking "where is your entry stamp?" This was the beginning of my reality check. Once he had explained that we couldn't go any further without it and that he would have to call an immigration officer back, who by now would be on his way home, it was time for some quick thinking. Womanly wiles were what was called for here but as I said, time for a reality check. Now in years gone by I may have charmed him with a beguiling smile and if called for, flirted a bit; instead I confirmed his suspicions that we weren't a threat to national security, just a middle aged, slightly eccentric English couple by offering to make him a cup of tea! It worked, he parked us up and called for his mate in immigration. So maybe, just maybe I'm not 25 anymore??

The immigration officer was much more of a cold fish when he arrived. "Why hadn't we heard the announcement? He had been on board the whole trip! Had we been asleep for the entire voyage?" 25? I felt like 15, being told off for not doing my homework on time.

Richard was taken off to the police station after being told to "leave your wife in the car." I watched closely to see where they were taking him, just in case?? Eventually he returned with both our passports, fully stamped. Apparently we are the first people ever to have got as far as we did with no stamp!

All this curfuffle made us late getting to customs. It did not matter, the overloaded, reloaded car was still behind us! Finally, the paperwork was done and we were in but by now it was gone midnight, so like many others we spent the remainder of the night in the dock carpark.


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Everything including the kitchen sink!

Thurs 4th Dec

Before leaving, we hear again the church bells ringing out a Christmas carol. They do this twice day, it is lovely, though quite a challenge to identify which carol it is. The only one I got, was Away in a Manager, well I think it was??

En route to Palermo, we stop for ice cream in a small harbour town, whose name was like Nichola - my sisters name; the hamper of dried goods and various petite sized delights she sent us off with is nearly gone, only a couple of sachets of Hot Chocolate remain.

San Nicola l'arena is another very nice little town, it has a small castle on the harbour in need of a refurb, an ideal summer residence should we win the lottery! It still remains though, that these small streets and their very necessary but confusing one way systems are better suited to a bike.

Once in Palermo, we source a ferry. There are less options than we had thought. The brochure we picked up on our last ferry, whilst showing the routes did not differentiate between passenger routes and freight only routes. Consequentially, fate has chosen for us. We are on a 21 hour crossing to Genoa and thence to Tangier.

Fri 5th-Sat 6th Dec

It is dark when we dock in Genoa, by the time we are off the ferry it is 8.30pm, not a good time to find a campsite. We head for the car park only to find there is a height restriction, there is however, a quiet corner where other vans are parked. One has a German plate; a good chance he will speak English or between us we will manage to converse? Well more chance than with Italian or Arabic. He is waiting for for the morning boat to Tunis and like us, unable to fit in the carpark.

In the morning we position Fay in line for the Tangier ferry. We are surrounded by cars and vans twice their normal height, stuffed to the gunnels and as low on their axles as it is possible to get. They are loaded with everything imaginable: bicycles, pushchairs, kitchen units, boxes, bags, blankets, groceries, tables, chairs and kitchen sinks! Each vehicle is so overloaded, none would be allowed to turn a wheel in England. Come to think of it, I'm not sure how they manage to turn a wheel anyway!

We spend the morning arranging a green card and informing the bank that we will be leaving Europe. So far, it appears we are amongst only a handful of Westerners on this ferry. We heading back to a land of headscarves and men drinking tea. I am loosing that holiday feeling already!

A long lunch!

Wed 3rd Dec

We had intended leaving Cefalu today after a daytime wander in the town. However, after a walk to the harbour on the other side of Cefalu, we found the most wonderful bar for lunch! It was a wine bar, come deli, come cafe; full of the most delicious looking goodies and a massive wine stock. For locals this could be the one and only shop they need to visit for their Christmas shopping!

The lunch was scrummy, washed down with an Etna wine. Richard preferred to try a beer, not a pint of draught in a mug, as at home; this beer was given more reverence than my wine. His beer came in an ice bucket, was served in a wine glass and was to be savoured. Needless to say, the alcohol content was such that a second night in the car park was required!

On our way back, we stopped to admire a most unusual tree. It had a thick, prickly trunk, beautiful bi coloured flowers and green fruit. A lady saw us looking at it and explained that it was a Cotton Tree. The trunk is apparently full of water and when the fruit ripen, they are full of cotton wool.

Cefalu

Tues 2nd Dec

If we are going to head for the port in search of sunnier destinations, we need to get back to coast. Sicily is a large island, meaning Palermo is more than a day away. We set off in holiday mode to enjoy the journey.

With its numerous peaks, Sicily has more than a spaghetti forkful of hairpin bends. Such "twisties" and narrow streets cry out for a motorbike, added to which there are so many tracks begging to be explored. We may have to return to Sicily one day, on a bike holiday? (Ooh, that's the second future holiday on the cards and at sometime we would also like to undertake a complete tour of Italy! I suspect the "Future Trip List" maybe endless?)

By early afternoon we reach the town of Cefalu, a pretty place on a lovely stretch of golden, sandy beach. High above the town is a fort. It comes as no surprise that Richard suggests we visit it! First we walk up the layered town, steep streets and stair cases, before reaching the official start of our trek. There are steps until about halfway, then these run out and we climb goat tracks until we reach our goal. It takes 2 hours! He was right though, the views were worth a bit of leg ache!

The beach front carpark allows overnight parking; most convenient! In the evening we walk the pretty bustling, town. Open shops sell tourist trinkets, Christmas ware and designer goods. For some reason, Richard declines buying me an unusual handbag. The reason must be that it was fashioned in the shape of a scooter rather than a motorbike; surely his refusal wasn't its €980 price tag??

In a restaurant overlooking the sea, we enjoy a lovely Sicilian meal which included Swordfish, a local speciality. It was delicious. Being in holiday mode is very easy but is no respecter of budgets!!

Etna

Mon 1st Dec

Today we were wowed! The size of the black lava flows take some comprehending. The scenery is alien. The weather seems to change every five minutes, so Etna came in and out of view behind her veil of cloud and smoke. At times the smoke changed the cloud colour to pink. Out of the cloud the sun shone quite warmly, then a spot of rain brought with it a rainbow. Whatever the weather though, the wind blew and blew. We tried to go for walk up one of Etna tracks but had to return after only a few feet; it was hard enough to stand up, let alone walk! And all the time there is the smell of Etna, a charred, burning smell, quite unlike any other burnt aroma. She is her own beast!

We really enjoyed today, it was something different, a new experience. It has also shown us that this trip is not about feeling familiar, this is our little adventure and we only have a maximum of eight weeks left to fulfil it!

The wind does not ease up, so we look for a sheltered place for the night. We find a disused road and head down it to a sheltered position. Having seen one tree fall down before our eyes today, it was not easy to decide if trees were going be a wind break for us or a risk? As we sit having a cup of tea a heard of cows appear, followed by several four wheel drive vehicles. The shepherds tell us in broken English and sign language, that they are moving the herd and will need to barricade the road. The cows also need a safe sheltered spot for the night.

We move on. Daylight is fading before we find another suitable place, not so nice but at least we found somewhere before dark. I had hoped to call my work mates this evening, during their Christmas celebration but we are so sheltered, there is no signal at all. Well, I was thinking of them, that's the best I could do.

Etna

Mon 1st Dec

Today we were wowed! The size of the black lava flows take some comprehending. The scenery is alien. The weather seems to change every five minutes, so Etna came in and out of view behind her veil of cloud and smoke. At times the smoke changed the cloud colour to pink. Out of the cloud the sun shone quite warmly, then a spot of rain brought with it a rainbow. Whatever the weather though, the wind blew and blew. We tried to go for walk up one of Etna tracks but had to return after only a few feet; it was hard enough to stand up, let alone walk! And all the time there is the smell of Etna, a charred, burning smell, quite unlike any other burnt aroma. She is her own beast!

We really enjoyed today, it was something different, a new experience. It has also shown us that this trip is not about feeling familiar, this is our little adventure and we only have a maximum of eight weeks left to fulfil it!

The wind does not ease up, so we look for a sheltered place for the night. We find a disused road and head down it to a sheltered position. Having seen one tree fall down before our eyes today, it was not easy to decide if trees were going be a wind break for us or a risk? As we sit having a cup of tea a heard of cows appear, followed by several four wheel drive vehicles. The shepherds tell us in broken English and sign language, that they are moving the herd and will need to barricade the road. The cows also need a safe sheltered spot for the night.

We move on. Daylight is fading before we find another suitable place, not so nice but at least we found somewhere before dark. I had hoped to call my work mates this evening, during their Christmas celebration but we are so sheltered, there is no signal at all. Well, I was thinking of them, that's the best I could do.

Sicily

Sun 30th Nov

Having started off on the coast road, we are still missing that Wow factor we have acquired a liking for. Until now this trip has, since we entered Czech, felt like an adventure. From there, regardless of whether or not old Eastern block countries are now in the EU, we have felt that we were outside the norm. Now we are definitely back in the normality of Europe, the trip now feels more like a holiday than an adventure; it is that feeling which is leaving us a bit flat.

We decide to head inland. The medieval villages which cling to the mountain sides are very pretty with their multi layered, narrow cobbled streets linked by stone stairways. These villages look their best from a distance though. Once inside it is sad to see how many of the buildings are empty, in need of repair - some to a state of dereliction, or for sale. We have never seen so much property for sale, it is as if half of Sicily is on the market.
Despite appreciating the quaintness of these villages, we still need a Wow. We head to Etna and she doesn't disappoint!

Slipping through Greece into Italy

Mon 24th Nov

The girl in the ticket office gave us good advice when she suggested where to stop. We spent a warm sunny day on a long sandy beach. We even went in the sea, though it was cold but no worse than going in the sea at home in August! Our ferry doesn't leave until 1am, so on the recommendation of the ticket girl, we head out of town to a little coastal village and have lovely meal in a most unlikely restaurant. As she said, it doesn't look much from the outside. Inside there is a betting office!? The people are friendly and food as good as we were told. We do feel it is shame to be bypassing Greece but we cannot do Greece and it's islands properly in the time we have left. It is good food for thought though for future planning, 2016 maybe?

Tue 25th - Fri 28th Nov

The ferry docked in Brindisi the following morning. We watched bemused by the entertainment of the off loading of the ferry; exasperated Romanian truck drivers being directed by excitable Italian crew, until between them they managed to get one artic stuck, so everyone had to reverse off. It was a wonder that in amongst the very frayed tempers no one got "lumped."

Over the next few days we worked our way around the heel of Italy, crossed over mid instep and made our way to the toe. There is always a period of adjustment when we have changed countries, this time though it seems harder and takes longer. Whether it is simply that we spent so in Turkey or perhaps it is simply that Italy is, well, too European! One of the reasons Turkey suited us so well was that it is indeed, where East meets West. When we returned there from Pakistan, it was definitely Western enough to put us immediately at our ease; at the same time though it is Eastern enough to be different. I loved that difference and that combination.

There is news from home. Earlier I had received brilliant news; the girls at work have been awarded a prestigious trophy. The runner up award for the best domicilliary care agency, in Hampshire! This is a significant achievement, since Hampshire is such a large county, with so many agencies and we are such a small, independent company. Well done girls, I am so proud of you!

This time, unfortunately, the news is not good. A close, elderly relative is very poorly. The thought looms that I may have to return home, temporarily??

After a telephone conversation with my daughter, the decision is made to continue with the trip, for now at least. Fate will cast her dice as she sees fit.

Goodbye Turkey(s)

Sat 22nd Nov

So today was our last day in Turkey. When we entered the country, which in some ways feels like yesterday and in other ways years ago, we were put out that we had to purchase three months of car insurance. I guess fate knew more than us; it runs out at midnight tonight!

I hope we are only saying au voir to Turkey and not Goodbye. We have become comfortable here, picked up some language, can shop reasonably competently, have enjoyed the weather (apart from the floods) have enjoyed it's ever changing scenery, marvelled at its history, acquired a taste for its cuisine, paddled in all of its seas, viewed its major rivers, including the Bosphorus and the Euphrates and delighted in the company of its people (well, apart from the bit in Eastern Anatolia!) Turkey has been a great to visit and one that wouldn't take too much persuasion for us to return to!

The road to the Greek border takes us past some very wet fields. In the distance are a lot of large, black birds pecking about. They look rather like turkey's? Whether through curiosity, or simply that we were dawdling our way out of the country we have become so fond of, is debatable but we take a detour! Down the track we go until we meet these strange, large, black birds that look like turkey's. They are turkey's!

A last bit of shopping and a last lunch, of baklava and Turkish coffee, then we are in Greece. The man at passport control gives us two tangerines as we leave. Just to underline how friendly the Turks are!

Having looked at the calendar and the weather, we have made the decision that Greece will be a future venture. Realistically, we have two full months at latest, before we need to be heading home. Based on how long it has taken us to see Turkey, then we cannot do justice to Greece and it's Islands in that time. Apart from which it's ferries are expensive, we have I sited more ruins than you can shake a stick at and the sun isn't shining! There is a motorway that goes right across mainland Greece to Italy. Maybe, by taking the motorway we won't get sidetracked?

With the intention of spending the night in a motorway service station, we drive on. However, this is not to be so. There are no service stations! Not even any lay-bys. What do you do if you should need refreshment, a comfort stop or fuel? The only option is to take an exit and find your way into the nearest town. I hope no one ever feels poorly or over tired on this Greek motorway, because there is nowhere to stop!

We get ourselves to a quiet piece of waste land between the back of a school and the beach. It is Sunday tomorrow so the school will be shut. Now all we have to do is find our way back to the motorway in the morning!

Sun 23rd Nov

By night fall we are the other side of Greece. As we enter Igoumenitsa we see a ticket office still open. The girl inside is very helpful, had we wanted to go to Anconia we could have been straight on a ferry tonight! The Brindisi ferry could take us but not Fay and the Bari ferry could take Fay but not us! Instead we opt for tomorrow nights ferry into Brindisi. The helpful lady draws us maps of where we may like to visit locally while we wait. We almost feel bad about not staying longer in Greece but there is a promise of more sunshine down in Sicily! Ironically, had we taken the ferry to Anconia, we could of been in Morocco before the end of the week! Hey ho, fate has served us well so far, let's see what she has in store for the rest of our trip???

Flamingoes!

Thur 20th Nov

Another night long storm disturbed our beach slumbers, the year really is rolling on and so must we. Our itinerary is left to fate, we will drive to Cesme and see what ferries are going where. It turns out that all ferries go to Chios (a Greek Island) if we want to get to Italy there are four ferry changes to do! The cost is high and the timetable uncertain. We could be hanging around for days or get stuck on an island. Whether it was really this reason or simply that we were hanging out our time in Turkey, I'm not sure but we decide to drive back to Cannakale and enter Greece by road.

Fri 21st Nov

How lucky we were with our decision to drive on. Turkey had yet another unexpected treat in store for us. Having driven through Isme with a very vaguely, half hearted thought that we would check out ferry routes from here, we didn't. It was far too busy a city to stop, the achievement was just getting through! Once out of the city though the road quietened enough to spot a slight detour, worthy of a stop. There in front of us were a flock of beautiful, pink, wild flamingoes! We watched them wade on their spindly legs, that don't look capable of supporting such plump bodies, we watched as their large beaks sifted for food and then the joyous sight of them flying; the sun on their great wings turning the soft pink to a vibrant orange. Up to the last, Turkey has been a real treat.

Our last night is spent beside the sea, we have a commemorative bonfire and bake potatoes and aubergines in its embers. As we sit watching the flames and listening to the waves lapping, a shooting star crosses the sky before us! Do we have any wishes left to make??