Everything including the kitchen sink!

Thurs 4th Dec

Before leaving, we hear again the church bells ringing out a Christmas carol. They do this twice day, it is lovely, though quite a challenge to identify which carol it is. The only one I got, was Away in a Manager, well I think it was??

En route to Palermo, we stop for ice cream in a small harbour town, whose name was like Nichola - my sisters name; the hamper of dried goods and various petite sized delights she sent us off with is nearly gone, only a couple of sachets of Hot Chocolate remain.

San Nicola l'arena is another very nice little town, it has a small castle on the harbour in need of a refurb, an ideal summer residence should we win the lottery! It still remains though, that these small streets and their very necessary but confusing one way systems are better suited to a bike.

Once in Palermo, we source a ferry. There are less options than we had thought. The brochure we picked up on our last ferry, whilst showing the routes did not differentiate between passenger routes and freight only routes. Consequentially, fate has chosen for us. We are on a 21 hour crossing to Genoa and thence to Tangier.

Fri 5th-Sat 6th Dec

It is dark when we dock in Genoa, by the time we are off the ferry it is 8.30pm, not a good time to find a campsite. We head for the car park only to find there is a height restriction, there is however, a quiet corner where other vans are parked. One has a German plate; a good chance he will speak English or between us we will manage to converse? Well more chance than with Italian or Arabic. He is waiting for for the morning boat to Tunis and like us, unable to fit in the carpark.

In the morning we position Fay in line for the Tangier ferry. We are surrounded by cars and vans twice their normal height, stuffed to the gunnels and as low on their axles as it is possible to get. They are loaded with everything imaginable: bicycles, pushchairs, kitchen units, boxes, bags, blankets, groceries, tables, chairs and kitchen sinks! Each vehicle is so overloaded, none would be allowed to turn a wheel in England. Come to think of it, I'm not sure how they manage to turn a wheel anyway!

We spend the morning arranging a green card and informing the bank that we will be leaving Europe. So far, it appears we are amongst only a handful of Westerners on this ferry. We heading back to a land of headscarves and men drinking tea. I am loosing that holiday feeling already!

A long lunch!

Wed 3rd Dec

We had intended leaving Cefalu today after a daytime wander in the town. However, after a walk to the harbour on the other side of Cefalu, we found the most wonderful bar for lunch! It was a wine bar, come deli, come cafe; full of the most delicious looking goodies and a massive wine stock. For locals this could be the one and only shop they need to visit for their Christmas shopping!

The lunch was scrummy, washed down with an Etna wine. Richard preferred to try a beer, not a pint of draught in a mug, as at home; this beer was given more reverence than my wine. His beer came in an ice bucket, was served in a wine glass and was to be savoured. Needless to say, the alcohol content was such that a second night in the car park was required!

On our way back, we stopped to admire a most unusual tree. It had a thick, prickly trunk, beautiful bi coloured flowers and green fruit. A lady saw us looking at it and explained that it was a Cotton Tree. The trunk is apparently full of water and when the fruit ripen, they are full of cotton wool.

Cefalu

Tues 2nd Dec

If we are going to head for the port in search of sunnier destinations, we need to get back to coast. Sicily is a large island, meaning Palermo is more than a day away. We set off in holiday mode to enjoy the journey.

With its numerous peaks, Sicily has more than a spaghetti forkful of hairpin bends. Such "twisties" and narrow streets cry out for a motorbike, added to which there are so many tracks begging to be explored. We may have to return to Sicily one day, on a bike holiday? (Ooh, that's the second future holiday on the cards and at sometime we would also like to undertake a complete tour of Italy! I suspect the "Future Trip List" maybe endless?)

By early afternoon we reach the town of Cefalu, a pretty place on a lovely stretch of golden, sandy beach. High above the town is a fort. It comes as no surprise that Richard suggests we visit it! First we walk up the layered town, steep streets and stair cases, before reaching the official start of our trek. There are steps until about halfway, then these run out and we climb goat tracks until we reach our goal. It takes 2 hours! He was right though, the views were worth a bit of leg ache!

The beach front carpark allows overnight parking; most convenient! In the evening we walk the pretty bustling, town. Open shops sell tourist trinkets, Christmas ware and designer goods. For some reason, Richard declines buying me an unusual handbag. The reason must be that it was fashioned in the shape of a scooter rather than a motorbike; surely his refusal wasn't its €980 price tag??

In a restaurant overlooking the sea, we enjoy a lovely Sicilian meal which included Swordfish, a local speciality. It was delicious. Being in holiday mode is very easy but is no respecter of budgets!!

Etna

Mon 1st Dec

Today we were wowed! The size of the black lava flows take some comprehending. The scenery is alien. The weather seems to change every five minutes, so Etna came in and out of view behind her veil of cloud and smoke. At times the smoke changed the cloud colour to pink. Out of the cloud the sun shone quite warmly, then a spot of rain brought with it a rainbow. Whatever the weather though, the wind blew and blew. We tried to go for walk up one of Etna tracks but had to return after only a few feet; it was hard enough to stand up, let alone walk! And all the time there is the smell of Etna, a charred, burning smell, quite unlike any other burnt aroma. She is her own beast!

We really enjoyed today, it was something different, a new experience. It has also shown us that this trip is not about feeling familiar, this is our little adventure and we only have a maximum of eight weeks left to fulfil it!

The wind does not ease up, so we look for a sheltered place for the night. We find a disused road and head down it to a sheltered position. Having seen one tree fall down before our eyes today, it was not easy to decide if trees were going be a wind break for us or a risk? As we sit having a cup of tea a heard of cows appear, followed by several four wheel drive vehicles. The shepherds tell us in broken English and sign language, that they are moving the herd and will need to barricade the road. The cows also need a safe sheltered spot for the night.

We move on. Daylight is fading before we find another suitable place, not so nice but at least we found somewhere before dark. I had hoped to call my work mates this evening, during their Christmas celebration but we are so sheltered, there is no signal at all. Well, I was thinking of them, that's the best I could do.

Etna

Mon 1st Dec

Today we were wowed! The size of the black lava flows take some comprehending. The scenery is alien. The weather seems to change every five minutes, so Etna came in and out of view behind her veil of cloud and smoke. At times the smoke changed the cloud colour to pink. Out of the cloud the sun shone quite warmly, then a spot of rain brought with it a rainbow. Whatever the weather though, the wind blew and blew. We tried to go for walk up one of Etna tracks but had to return after only a few feet; it was hard enough to stand up, let alone walk! And all the time there is the smell of Etna, a charred, burning smell, quite unlike any other burnt aroma. She is her own beast!

We really enjoyed today, it was something different, a new experience. It has also shown us that this trip is not about feeling familiar, this is our little adventure and we only have a maximum of eight weeks left to fulfil it!

The wind does not ease up, so we look for a sheltered place for the night. We find a disused road and head down it to a sheltered position. Having seen one tree fall down before our eyes today, it was not easy to decide if trees were going be a wind break for us or a risk? As we sit having a cup of tea a heard of cows appear, followed by several four wheel drive vehicles. The shepherds tell us in broken English and sign language, that they are moving the herd and will need to barricade the road. The cows also need a safe sheltered spot for the night.

We move on. Daylight is fading before we find another suitable place, not so nice but at least we found somewhere before dark. I had hoped to call my work mates this evening, during their Christmas celebration but we are so sheltered, there is no signal at all. Well, I was thinking of them, that's the best I could do.

Sicily

Sun 30th Nov

Having started off on the coast road, we are still missing that Wow factor we have acquired a liking for. Until now this trip has, since we entered Czech, felt like an adventure. From there, regardless of whether or not old Eastern block countries are now in the EU, we have felt that we were outside the norm. Now we are definitely back in the normality of Europe, the trip now feels more like a holiday than an adventure; it is that feeling which is leaving us a bit flat.

We decide to head inland. The medieval villages which cling to the mountain sides are very pretty with their multi layered, narrow cobbled streets linked by stone stairways. These villages look their best from a distance though. Once inside it is sad to see how many of the buildings are empty, in need of repair - some to a state of dereliction, or for sale. We have never seen so much property for sale, it is as if half of Sicily is on the market.
Despite appreciating the quaintness of these villages, we still need a Wow. We head to Etna and she doesn't disappoint!

Slipping through Greece into Italy

Mon 24th Nov

The girl in the ticket office gave us good advice when she suggested where to stop. We spent a warm sunny day on a long sandy beach. We even went in the sea, though it was cold but no worse than going in the sea at home in August! Our ferry doesn't leave until 1am, so on the recommendation of the ticket girl, we head out of town to a little coastal village and have lovely meal in a most unlikely restaurant. As she said, it doesn't look much from the outside. Inside there is a betting office!? The people are friendly and food as good as we were told. We do feel it is shame to be bypassing Greece but we cannot do Greece and it's islands properly in the time we have left. It is good food for thought though for future planning, 2016 maybe?

Tue 25th - Fri 28th Nov

The ferry docked in Brindisi the following morning. We watched bemused by the entertainment of the off loading of the ferry; exasperated Romanian truck drivers being directed by excitable Italian crew, until between them they managed to get one artic stuck, so everyone had to reverse off. It was a wonder that in amongst the very frayed tempers no one got "lumped."

Over the next few days we worked our way around the heel of Italy, crossed over mid instep and made our way to the toe. There is always a period of adjustment when we have changed countries, this time though it seems harder and takes longer. Whether it is simply that we spent so in Turkey or perhaps it is simply that Italy is, well, too European! One of the reasons Turkey suited us so well was that it is indeed, where East meets West. When we returned there from Pakistan, it was definitely Western enough to put us immediately at our ease; at the same time though it is Eastern enough to be different. I loved that difference and that combination.

There is news from home. Earlier I had received brilliant news; the girls at work have been awarded a prestigious trophy. The runner up award for the best domicilliary care agency, in Hampshire! This is a significant achievement, since Hampshire is such a large county, with so many agencies and we are such a small, independent company. Well done girls, I am so proud of you!

This time, unfortunately, the news is not good. A close, elderly relative is very poorly. The thought looms that I may have to return home, temporarily??

After a telephone conversation with my daughter, the decision is made to continue with the trip, for now at least. Fate will cast her dice as she sees fit.